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- Английские скороговорки - Engllish Tongue Twisters
Who would have thought? And now, thanks to Wiz Fineron, we can add to the list of very special things about the number 11, as it has recently become the hardest bouldering grade to be flashed by a New Zealander. The left-hand version is graded V8, the straight-up is V9 and the right-hander is V Auckland climber Erica Gatland swept both the Under lead and speed girls' climbing competitions, with Sian Moffitt of Taupo coming in second in both disciplines.
Rotorua climber Aiyana Grigsby took third in the under girls' lead climbing, giving the New Zealand team an all-out sweep of that category. Auckland climber Daniel Newth brought home the silver medal for the Under lead competition for the boys. In the Under category, year-old Carly McIlroy snagged the gold in lead climbing and National Park climber Lucy Whitehead won the silver for speed climbing.
Organiser Tony Burnell brought together an impressive team of instructors: John Entwisle, John Hammond, Nic Harvey, Francis Main and Luke Faed, who all volunteered their time to pass on their knowledge and experience to the next generation of climbers and without whom the camp would not have been possible. The participants were aged between 13 and years-old and drawn from various New Zealand climbing clubs. The majority of the participants were from an indoor sport climbing background. They were put through their paces with skill sessions held at Mt Aspiring College and outdoor climbing sessions around Hospital Flat.
The week started with top-rope, anchor set-up and falling practise, followed by some closely supervised lead sport climbing. After the second skills session on Wednesday it was back out into the fresh air, and by the end of the week pretty much all of the students had gained some experience with lead trad climbing and multi-pitch climbing, not to mention the exhilaration of their first metre free abseil from the top of Little Big Wall. There was one minor set back during the week, one of the girls from Wanaka took a fall on the Diamond and needed to be brought out by Search and Rescue.
The rescue could not have been carried out without the help of our other young climbers. Other evenings were taken up with a gear session at Mountain Outdoors, hosted by Kay and Steve Hart, and a talk and slide show by Pat Deavoll on her career in climbing and her recent trip to Afghanistan.
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The final function of the week was the camp barbeque, held on the lakeshore—a great end to a great week. In summary, it was a fantastic week with an enthusiastic team of young climbers who will hopefully have learnt skills that will serve them well throughout their climbing careers. Finally, I want to say a big thank you to our team of volunteer instructors, Mt Aspiring College and its staff, Allison Christie our parent volunteer, and the New Zealand Alpine Club for their support.
Hangdog Climbing Gym in Wellington was at full capacity for round two, with a high-energy event that left everyone well stoked. Big thanks to Brook and the Hangdog crew for a great event. For mid-season results and rankings see nbs. The problem was established last October by James Morris, who suggested a grade of V11, but Zac thought that was a little stout, so gave it the phat upgrade to V It follows an obvious line on the popular boulder which also houses Psychic Tea Lady.
The problem starts with very hard moves through a steep bulge, and continues with very hard span moves between some very awful runnels. There are seven claimed V12s in New Zealand, and one V Conditions have been excellent in the basin this year, due to a mild winter. Looking back down the East Ridge of Mt Eaton from the summit. The foresummit on which Paul Knott and Derek Buckle were trapped for eight days is on the left. The first ascent of an unclimbed peak in Canada's Yukon territory led to a storm-bound epic and eventual helicopter evacuation for New Zealander Paul Knott and his British climbing partner Derek Buckle.
The pair then descended, in deteriorating weather, to their high camp on a foresummit at m, and decided to spend a night there in anticipation of one more day of reasonable weather. During that night a storm hit with full force, half burying their tent in wind-blown snow. Paul and Derek attempted to descend the following morning but were forced back to their high camp.
In Paul's words: 'Despite limited visibility, we packed to descend. We felt our way almost blindly down from the foresummit, desperately looking for cues in the white-out. The terrain was crevassed and corniced, and we could see too little to stay safe or navigate. We climbed back up to the top and threw up the tent. Unable to shovel snow away from their tent, Paul and Derek had to keep digging their tent out and re-pitch it on top of the snowpack.
Paul and Derek again tried to descend on 15 May, but again found themselves in difficult and dangerous conditions: 'We packed up our ice-caked tent and attempted to descend. Again, we found ourselves in white-out, only this time wading the steep slope in thigh-deep powder. We also felt alarmingly weak.
We concluded our only prudent option was to raise an emergency with Kluane National Park,' Paul said. The pair were hopeful of a forecasted weather clearance that day and the chance of a rescue, but the storm continued unabated. He comments that he's never seen anything like this storm before, but that it won't stop him from going back! The New Zealand climbing community suffered the loss of three prominent and much-loved climbers this winter, in two separate climbing tragedies.
The Revelation Mountains lie around kilometres south-west of Mt Denali and the central Alaska Range, where Graham made another first ascent recently. Graham and Scott's climb was only the third ascent of the mountain by any route. Graham and Scott flew by helicopter to the Revelation Mountains, outside of Denali National Park, as the lack of snow this time of year impedes ski-plane access. After setting up camp at the foot of the east buttress, Graham and Scott set off on 13 July and cleanly free-climbed metres up what Graham describes as 'a beautiful granite wall with cracks and corners aplenty' at grade 5.
After a few hours rest in a bivvy on a convenient ledge while waiting for a small storm to pass, the pair continued their climb metres up a ridgeline in stunning weather. Graham and Scott then simul-climbed through ice and snow to where the east buttress meets up with the previously ascended south-east buttress. From here, they managed to reach the summit at noon and then abseil metres to the eastern side of the north ridge to a hanging glacier and trek back down to the Revelations Glacier.
Graham and Scott decided at this juncture to wait for their lift out, since their ropes were a bit shredded. Storms pelted the pair for the next five days. On 21 July their helicopter arrived to take them back to civilisation. After five days of being tent-bound, that helicopter would have seemed like an angel! To lose such a larger-than-life character is a huge blow to the New Zealand and international climbing communities. Denali lived in San Francisco and had just graduated from art college.
Jamie VintonBoot, New Zealand Mountaineer of the Year, was knocked off his feet by a small avalanche on the Remarkables and fell to his death. His death is a tragic loss for the climbing community and, of course, his friends and family. Jamie is survived by his partner Jess and their sixmonth-old son Mahe.
View of the Angel from the helicopter, with the east buttress just left of the prominent ridge in centre-frame. Editor Kester Brown kester alpineclub. Advertising enquiries Kester Brown tel: 64 03 fax: 64 03 e-mail: adverts alpineclub. We welcome contributions in the form of photography, features, short articles, news, reviews, comment and letters. Contact us for payment rates. Unit 6, 6 Raycroft Street, Opawa, Christchurch.
The High Alpine Skills Course HASC is an intermediatelevel course, for those wishing to learn techniques such as glacier travel, crevasse extraction and pitched climbing. A female-only version of this course is also being run. NZAC courses are very good value for money and are very popular. If you would like to participate in a course this summer, please register your interest with Sefton Priestley: sefton alpineclub. The new guide will be expanded to include the Cook, Copland, Douglas and Karangarua catchments.
Publication is planned for summer Editors Rob Frost and Allan Uren are currently seeking information on new routes and corrections or amendments to the previous editions. If you can contribute any relevant information, please forward details to aorakiguide gmail. There will be a special deal on the guidebook available on the night, plus drinks and nibbles. Limbo writes: I HAVE had the pleasure of listening to older club members reminiscing about past climbs and adventures. Many of the incidents described have missed out on official accounts. This has lead to undertaking an oral history project to capture memories.
This project will be completed in the remainder of Due to the time involved in obtaining outside funding, we are already turning our minds to possible future projects and would welcome ideas from club members. If you have ideas, relevant skills or an interest in oral history and would like to help please contact Sam Newton: sam alpineclub. We provide inspiration, information and seek to enable a vibrant climbing community. Our core purpose is to foster and support climbing. While all care is taken, neither The Climber nor the New Zealand Alpine Club nor any person acting on their behalf makes any warranty with respect to the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of the information published nor assumes any liability with respect to the use of, or for damages arising from the use of, any information disclosed within this magazine.
Hopefully, in time, NZAC will be able to treat its volunteer section instructors with some clothing as a thank you for their service. However, it all depends on the degree to which the partnership is supported, so please make sure you identify yourself as an NZAC member at the counter to receive your 20 per cent discount and to trigger the donation from Macpac. Even if Macpac is having a sale and the item on sale already has more discount than the discount given under the partnership programme, you can still ask for your purchase to support NZAC. The NZAC submission focuses on opposing changes that diminish the recognition of recreation values in the resource consent process by deleting the need to have regard to them in clause 7 c of the RMA, which has a very close relationship to recreation experience and landscape values.
If approved as part of this RMA reform, council planners will not consider recreation values when considering whether or not a development should proceed. In total, 14, submissions were received. But the proposed changes to sections 6 and 7 are in an entirely different category and should not go ahead. These documents are well overdue for review. Thanks to NZAC members who have contributed. Steve, formerly from Auckland, has been living overseas in Scotland and trained for a year before climbing Zodiac with British climber Andy Kirkpatrick in preparation for the solo, which he completed in June.
Prior to this undertaking, Steve had never led a pitch on a big-wall before. It is understandable that he felt more than a little nervous! Steve has the degenerative condition retinitis pigmentosa, which has currently reduced his vision to only ten per cent as compared to a fully sighted person. Steve is not stopping at this incredible feat. Despite the fact that he will likely lose all of his sight within five years, Steve is planning on tackling more epic outdoor challenges. With Steve's enthusiastic attitude, he is sure to do well, in whichever task he decides to embark upon.
For more on Steve's climb and future plans see the Scottish television channel STV's interview with him at news. Since then he has worked as a guide and lecturer aboard the MS Lindblad Explorer, helped develop the Antarctic Visitor Trail in Christchurch and was instrumental in a major oil clean-up at the Cape Hallett penguin colony. Norris is currently curator of Antarctic History at Canterbury Museum.
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Email is a great way for NZAC to distribute information—it saves on printing and postage costs, and is better for the environment. Study Outdoor Education at Aoraki Polytechnic. Definitely not for fashion gurus or the faint-hearted. As such, appointing the right person into such a crucial role has been paramount. Sefton brings a unique mix of event management, instruction and commercial experience to the role. His enthusiasm for climbing and the climbing community is obvious to anyone who has met him. Sefton will be well known to many people in the climbing community, especially amongst the rock climbing scene.
Professionally, Sefton has established his marketing and commercial credentials by establishing the very successful climbing hold company Uprising Ventures Ltd. Prior to that he was a successful facility manager, coach and instructor within the indoor climbing industry. Thanks Kester. I started climbing in Joshua Tree on a trip to the States when I was 11 and never got over it.
Although I learned to climb on trad gear, back in Christchurch the YMCA boulder room became my second home and sport climbing my main staple. What aspects have you been involved in? Instruction, event management and route-setting were aspects about working at the climbing walls that I particularly enjoyed. Then in I let my fascination with climbing holds get the better of me and set up a hold manufacturing company called Uprising. Now, after five years, the operation is run completely by my employees, giving me a chance to take on a new challenge. What will you bring to the role of programme manager?
NZAC decided to put its name to it, and its support has been instrumental in it becoming the largest series of climbing events in the country. I knew that the team at NZAC runs a tight ship and are committed to supporting and fostering climbing in New Zealand, and that this would be an amazing chance for me to help in achieving that aim. Evidently they sensed my enthusiasm and offered me the job! Taking on the responsibilities previously held by Pat Deavoll is a real honour—she has done an amazing job in the activities and events co-ordinator role, especially her work on the national instruction programme.
I would like to see the club increase its interaction with and relevance to young climbers. There is a massive pool of talent and experience amongst our members and with my background working with youth, hopefully I can help find new ways to realise this. Have you been getting out much climbing or training? I had a low-key on the climbing front. Watch the movie Cold and you'll quickly realise two things about American climber Cory Richards: he's apt to swear and cry on camera. In Cold it only takes three words before he drops his first f-bomb, and his crying scene is the most intimately powerful moment in the movie.
For those who haven't seen Cold, it is a riveting watch. Over the past 26 years, 16 expeditions have tried and failed to climb one of Pakistan's m peaks in winter. The climb on Gasherbrum II nearly killed the trio. After summitting in intense cold, they were hit by a storm, and then a huge avalanche, during the descent. The success of Cold propelled Cory's photography and climbing career onto the world stage.
He won the National Geographic Adventurer of the Year award, and now spends up to nine months each year away from home filming and climbing.
Speed Chat Dictionary
Is this your first time here? Yeah it is, and I've got to say I'm instantly blown away by two things. First is the landscape. We were flying into Queenstown and had an aborted landing, which was like, holy shit what's happening?
They Wouldn't Be Chessmen
We were literally a few feet from the ground, but then powered off again. But I got to see a bunch more scenery as we flew around the second time. And the second thing is how nice everyone is. You can't walk anywhere without someone saying hi and being friendly. I was in New York last week and pretty much everyone there wants to kill you. Wow, I don't know that I am. I think maybe in a microcosm, but it all comes with a little bit of bullshit anyway. But it's also scary because I can never really top what I've done.
I figure I will, or hope to, technically, but will anyone appreciate that in the same way? Fame in the climbing world doesn't have much meaning attached. It's pretty shallow and fleeting. The hard thing is navigating the pitfalls of buying into your self-image, drinking your own Kool-Aid, too much. I'm still trying to figure out what it all means, how to stay true to my own goals.
All this other stuff can be really detrimental. At times, I struggle with that a lot. Yeah, it is something that takes a lot of consideration. I try to make a decision on an external factor, think about it and then in a way disregard it. I understand what a sponsor wants, I understand the notoriety this climb might get me, but is it the right decision for me to do this?
Is it the right thing for my trajectory as a climber? I think we have to look at the big picture, always. Climbing is an interesting paradigm. It's only recently that money has come into personal climbing. Before, it was all about nationalism and how money and sponsorship brought teams together. It's only in the past decade or so that we have seen the influence of money towards individuals.
They've become branded, and there are examples where decisions have been based around that. That can be a really dangerous influence. It can kill you.
And how does it feel being the most famous crying climber on the big screen? The success was completely unanticipated. It was a movie made on a whim. I mean, we were lucky on so many levels. Lucky it was that year. Lucky that Simone was leading the expedition, and that we had Denis as the muscle. And we were lucky that I had the camera.
Photography has always been my vehicle, whether it's photos of me or by me. I find something that needs to be documented. And yeah, when I filmed the crying scene, it seemed like the right thing to do. What I realised at that moment was that I needed to be that subject. It was like, fuck, I'm going to cry. So I turned the camera on myself. And it was the crying footage that made Cold what it was. My dad's a crier. He cries at films all the time. I learnt it from him. Yeah, I certainly cry when things affect me. I think tears are an incredible expression.
There are times for them and then there are times to hold them back too. You've got a polished routine going, especially up on stage. But you're a bit of an f-bomb hog, eh? What's with that? I use swearing as a tool. It's part of my vocabulary. I use it with my regular conversations. In a way it's the parlance of our time. It's the way we speak.
When I'm not using it on stage I feel that I'm being dishonest. The person I am swears. Why would I change that? I've had a few complaints, but I think ultimately it helps me connect with people. They realise the person in front of them isn't someone different but is very much the same. Some people get offended but most end up enjoying my talks more. The irony here is that, whether it's swearing or crying, by exposing yourself with that emotional vulnerability, it can mean that people put you on a pedestal even more.
What we've been taught is to not show our vulnerability, especially as men. All of these things mean that people start to connect. They get it, you know. I'm going to show you everything, all of my weaknesses, and yet they think I'm strong because of it. What new opportunities have opened up? Oh a lot of doors have opened for sure. But I think perspective is one of the things that I've recognised the most.
Success grants you possibilities. But it also grants you a tremendous amount of pressure and responsibility. How do I want to live up to those expectations? Do I care? Opportunities and pressure come into play equally. Things are expected when you go on trips now. Things have drastically changed since then. I'm married and have a house and all those grown-up things, but it also means I'm away nine months of the year with my commitments. There are a lot of different things to manage and try to keep together. I don't give a shit that I was involved in it or not, rather that it's an opportunity to celebrate being human.
I get a kick out of seeing this. Some outstanding images competed for the top awards and trophies in this year's competition. Judges Rob Brown, Lee Howell and Colin Monteath commented that overall the standard of entries was very high this year in most categories. Thanks to previous competition winner Mark Watson for administering the competition. Most great photographs are about three things: light, the moment and the frame how the photograph is composed. Even though the light is pretty straight in this photograph, it is a great composition of a great moment.
I wondered about whether this photo would have had enought impact if the yellow-billed cloughs were not soaring on the left-hand side. I came to the conclusion they were a pretty critical part of the photograph. Actually, all the judges loved it. I would say we spent more time looking at this shot than any other. This one got us talking about the start of the universe, the big bang, and how on earth John actually managed to photograph such an event.
It was only when I was told the title that I started to get my head around it.
Congratulations John for not walking past this little patch of ice and for taking the time to capture and edit it so well. In this case there was a very strong sense of the subject being on a journey, which surprisingly few photographs of the outdoors successfully convey. It also stirred up all the feelings of what it is like to be up on the tops in the moody New Zealand landscape. Cropping to the panorama format has really helped the composition, creating just the right scale to the small figures in a powerful alpine landscape. Even though the light is middle-of-the-day when else do you get to the top of Tasman?
The animal positioned on the side so that it appears to be moving into the scene always seems to work. Ladakh looks like one of those places full of photographic opportunities, but you still have to be patient enough to look for the good light. I also like the positioning of the line of the blue lake in the composition. The strong form of the peaks in this photograph, as well as the light and shadow, makes for a strong black and white photograph. If anything, when it comes time to print this for the wall, it could handle a tad more contrast, but it all depends on the sort of look you are going for, and this is the sort of photograph you could endlessly re-interpret.
But what is good light? Here, of course, it was key to light the rock climber, but without the person doing the belaying having a head torch on and a bit of light as well, the story would not be complete and it would have been just another photo. Even though I am not usually a fan of modern rock climbing images cluttered with rubber mats and arms praying to Mecca, we all felt this young photographer had made a great effort to lean over the edge or rope down to get into position to catch the moment.
CM It has good composition and the treatment complements the shot. To be honest, I was a little disappointed with the Rock Climbing category this year. It is normally a very strong category, and one which I look forward to judging.
There is a wealth of great climbing shots out there—you just have to look in any issue of The Climber. I would love to see some more effort from up-and-coming photographers and experienced ones with finding different ways to showcase rock climbing, be it with off-camera flash, different perspectives or awesome portraits, to name a few. The image needs to tell a story, I want to see that the photographer has thought about the composition, the light, that decisive moment that the shutter was pressed. This is what makes a good, compelling image.
The composition is great; the helicopter and subject are positioned perfectly. I could see this shot being used as an opener in any magazine. The only criticism I have is how the image has been treated. I like the black and white conversion and there is detail in the highlights but this has made the overall image very dark.
I would increase the exposure by two stops and then gently mask to bring back the detail in the highlights. Hedgehog House is dedicated to increasing the awareness of looking after the polar and mountain regions of the world. Colin has been enamoured with mountain travel since the s, and has taken part in 21 expeditions in the Himalaya as well as others in the Andes, Alaska, Greenland, New Guinea, Svalbard and more. He has had 31 seasons in Antarctica since Lee Howell Growing up in the UK, Lee first embarked on a career in automotive engineering, which took him to Formula One as a race team mechanic.
After moving to New Zealand in Lee put down the spanners in favour of a fulltime career behind the camera. Since then Lee has developed a reputation for producing high quality, professional images for corporate, editorial and advertising clients like Bentley Motors Ltd, Audi, Porsche, Top Gear and Autocar. He does take the odd nice photo and still enjoys looking at big mountains and climbing little ones. Aerial shot of Mt Pembroke, Fiordland.
Английские скороговорки - Engllish Tongue Twisters
The north ridge, running from centre-left of frame to the summit, is unclimbed. Nothing could be further from the truth. First ascents in our mountains are far less elusive than many realise. There are unclimbed lines and unexplored peaks out there, still waiting to be claimed. You can make first ascents of untrodden ridges and faces.
Can you imagine what that would be like? You reach up for the next hold, savouring the feel of the rock for a few seconds, knowing that no-one has ever made that move before. You get to a nice wide ledge, pull out a muesli bar, sit and look back down to the valley. Nobody's eaten a snack on that ledge before, or seen that view before. Whether you want to tell people about what you've done, or just keep the experience to yourself, it can't be denied that the feeling of travelling over a piece of landscape that has previously never known anything of humankind is pretty special.
Have you ever found yourself looking at a map and wondered what a particular mountain would be like to climb from one side, only to read that the existing routes are all elsewhere on the peak? There you go! That's your project! You may get only part-way up, find it's too hard, and have to retreat. Well done—you've survived your introduction to the explorative world of first ascents. Even if you didn't complete the climb, I bet it got the blood tingling in your veins and fueled the desire for further attempts on that peak or elsewhere.
All it took was the desire to go somewhere different. Give one of them a go. Mt Pembroke is a beautiful peak, named in by JL Stokes of the Acheron, after the town of the same name in his home country of Wales. The peak rises metres straight out of the Tasman Sea immediately north of Milford Sound. On a fine day Pembroke is clearly visible from the cruise boats in Milford Sound, and it has been an alluring abjective for mountaineers for years now. This is possibly the only existing route on the mountain that has been climbed more than once.
There has been no recorded ascent along the crest of the Pembroke Range itself to the summit of Pembroke the north ridge. The route appears to comprise a moderate rock scramble along a blocky ridge. There will almost certainly be some exposed steps that will require a rope. The best way to access the ridge would be to get dropped off at or row or kayak to Harrison Cove and head up the Harrison Valley—stay on the true right—and climb the peak between Pembroke and Te Hau. This peak was climbed by Conway Powell and party in the 70s. The most straightforward descent would be down the standard route the Lippe Couloir into Pembroke Creek.
It would be best if the ridge is free of snow, but snow in the couloir would make the descent easier. I think a good combination of weather and conditions is likely to occur in late summer after a big snow season. Mt Burns is surprisingly overlooked for such a big mountain. The north-west ridge absolutely dominates the head of the Landsborough River, with impressive overlaps and slabs rising above Rubicon Torrent and the Spence Glacier.
A one-kilometre section of the ridge forms a series of serrations—rising on slabs and dropping down broken steps— which is followed by what looks like a straightforward final metre section to the summit. At that time, maps showed a peak on this ridge called The Dwarf, which, if it had actually existed, would have been one of the highest unclimbed peaks in New Zealand at the time. This party climbed from the rock biv at the Rubicon—Landsborough confluence up to the crest of the ridge near where The Dwarf was supposed to be, only to find themselves on the massive north-west ridge of Burns.
The base of this ridge is remote. This approach is a bit tricky and requires fine weather. Other feasible approach options are: a from the Karangarua or Douglas valleys, b all the way up the Landsborough Valley, or c into the mid-Landsborough from the Hopkins catchment. Anytime between early to late summer will probably be good for an attempt. I'm not sure if snow on the slabs would make it easier or more difficult overall. Descent would be down moderate snow and gravel slopes to the McKerrow Glacier, or to the head of the Mueller Glacier via the southwest ridge or the Welchman Glacier.
Many parties have been in the Otoko Valley over the last few decades with the intention of climbing the north face of Hooker—most have been thwarted by weather. Hooker also has a smaller brother, Mt Jack, which has been unfairly ignored. All available sources indicate that the entire northern half of Mts Hooker and Jack host no routes to the summits.
The approach offers typical South Westland access issues, including big bouldery rivers, dense bush and remoteness. There's a route to be done from the head of the Otoko Glacier, up metres of moderately steep rock to the summit snow-shelf. This would probably be the easiest way to climb Hooker from the Otoko, but it's a bit of a scrappy route. The 'little north face' to the east is impressive and is directly under the summit, but is difficult. Jamie Vinton-Boot and Shelley Hersey did a line up to the snow shelf in The best line on this face would lead directly onto the rib under the summit, but the rock is reportedly too rotten to be conducive to safe climbing on terrain that steep.
The 'big north face' to the west is very aesthetically pleasing and doesn't look too hard. The north-east spur of Mt Jack is also particularly impressive and may offer more consistently-angled climbing. Both climbs will be approximately metres long. There are a number of potential routes on Hooker, but I consider the most striking to be the obvious buttress near the highest part of the face, immediately right of the small, steep icefall.
On Jack, I would gain the prominent shoulder at m from either the north or Descending back to the start of either route will be impractical. Go lightweight, and carry all your gear on the climb. You would need to be extremely efficient to make it from the base of the route to Marks Flat in one day. Alternatively, descend from the summit to Jack Creek and walk out to the Paringa Bridge. On Hooker, you don't want the summit snow-shelf to be too broken, so late summer might be pushing it.
On Jack, things don't get too cut up, so as late as Easter could be fine. The south-face gully is prominent from this perspective. The south face of Clark has a pleasantlooking, moderately angled gully that will offer approximately metres of climbing, with a steepish couple of pitches near the top. I have been unable to uncover any records of an ascent. The best access will be to approach from Elcho Pass, sidling around the western slopes of Mt Ward. The best descent is probably down the South East Ridge. The face could be done in a really big day from the head of the North Elcho, or in a comfortable day from Elcho Pass.
Late spring to early summer will probably be the best time to make an attempt. Note that Clark's west ridge is also probably unclimbed, and could likely be done any time of year. Mt Copland is on the left and Lyttle Peak on the right, with the western slabs above Architect Creek catching the evening light. This is the view up the lower Cook River to Lyttle Peak, described by several people as the most spectacular mountain on the Navigator Range.
The bivvy rock near the DarkwaterLyttle confluence is named Bannister Rock. Since then Lyttle has been ascended a handful of times from the Ruera, once as part of a Shiels to Fang traverse, and once from the Cook Valley, starting from near the La Perouse Glacier terminal moraine. By far the most striking feature on Lyttle is the unclimbed west face, which comprises steep slabs that rear out of Architect Creek and look wonderful and golden in the West Coast evening light.
An easier unclimbed route would be the pleasant looking northwest ridge from Whale Saddle. A rope and rock rack may come in handy near the summit. They're both a bit of a bash. The head of Architect Creek looks like a grand place, but there's nothing resembling a marked route to get there—you'd have to bash through bush on the true-right well above the river to get around the lower gorge, then hope for low creek levels in order to avoid the scrub and boulders of the upper basin.
The Cook is known for rough travel, and the climb up to Whale Saddle is reasonably steep, but at least the majority of the valley route has recently been re-marked but not re-cut. Allow three days minimum for the trip. Lyttle would probably have a long climbing season. I suspect any time from November to April would offer good conditions. Here are some other notable routes and features that appear to be unclimbed. Of course there are many, many more than this— these are just a few that have become apparent to me over the last few years of wandering and wondering.
Aoraki region Banks Range traverse from Sybil to Dilemma hard Torres-Tasman traverse in winter tough Livingston, north peak unclimbed u s u. This is the most remote of the peaks described in this article, and would probably involve a trip of at least one week to climb it and return home. The peak does have one very appealing feature: I think it is completely unclimbed.
It was a tough trip through some beautiful country. For six days we figured out our own way—nobody, it still seems, had been along the range before. As much as we would have liked to remain on the crest of the range, that was impossible due to several razor-sharp sections, gaping slots in the bedrock, and the need to shelter from the weather at night. It was not much higher than us, but far more dramatic, and the highest point on the range after Mt Dispute. This is a climb for the transalpine enthusiasts out there—your very own opportunity to climb a virgin peak.
Pt m is the shadowy peak where the range drops out of sight. Or that it transcends mind and body. People who say that stuff are usually trying to sell you hemp shoes a bad idea, on so many levels. Climbing is none of those things. It may be a medium for self-expression and selfabsorption, but really, climbing, in all its declensions, is only about the axis of difficulty and the axis of danger. Against those two axes, climbing history and progression can be plotted. And so the various sub-genres of climbing can be ranked, to determine which is king amongst kings.
Whichever achieves the highest intersection of difficulty and danger must, by definition, be the ultimate expression of the art form that is climbing. Joshua Merriam, padless and committed. Some may be surprised by the results, but the numbers do not lie. This problem has two of the features that make for a great highball: a terrible landing and a dynamic crux six metres off the ground.
Only one repeat to date. One of the first of a violent new breed of highballs at Flock Hill, this problem offers technical face climbing leading to big spans and big drops, as Justin Wood demonstrates. Rarely repeated. Not convinced? Hazards include burning your fingers on the billy teapot, snorers and huts full of tourists. Sure, people die tramping, but then people die playing golf too. Bouldering Common garden variety bouldering gets to the top of the difficulty axis, but next to nowhere on the danger axis.
A code in which sitting and lying-down starts are regarded as legitimate practices is always going to struggle for supremacy. Have you ever seen a picture of a boulderer unleashing the fury mere inches above the ground and thought Cripes, get down from there! Sport Unlike the other codes plotted, sport climbing actually gets less dangerous as it gets more difficult.
That is because the number of bolts per metre tends to increase as the grade increases. Alpine Most alpinists were probably expecting alpine climbing to top the table. There is no denying the extreme levels of danger that can be found in the mountains if you look hard enough.
Exhausting, yes. Hard, no. Yet blind people, old people and people with no legs can do it, all the way to the top of the earth in fact. Just saying. Ice Climbing ice is dangerous, especially in New Zealand, where it might more accurately be described as almost-stationary-water climbing. And ice climbers know it too—they even dispensed with ice tool leashes in recent times, in a vain attempt to improve their ranking. Ice is barely vertical at the best of times. And all that mixed malarkey just looks like rock climbing for people with weak fingers.
It may be splitting hairs but to paraphrase Matt Pierson, writer, boulderer and bon vivant the difference between soloing and highball bouldering is falling. When soloing, the climber does not accept the risk of a fall. With highball bouldering, that risk has to be accepted, embraced even. But it has happened. I have seen people climb boulders from which a fall would be fatal.
Not on goat tracks or cake walks either—on proper hard, proper high problems. I sometimes wonder if the rest of the New Zealand climbing scene has any idea about the supreme acts of skill, strength and bravery that our top highball boulderers have produced in recent years. Probably not. Rock climbing was polarised from its bigger brother, mountaineering, and apart from a handful of devotees there was no recognition of his achievements.
Had Foster been climbing new routes on Himalayan peaks in an equivalently up-to-date style, and if rock climbing was as respected as that noble pursuit, he may well by now have been Sir Roland. Some will dismiss such deeds as party tricks. As if risking life and limb on some Weet-Bix ridgeline in the Southern Alps or rolling the dice on some nearly but not quite vertical snow pile is more remarkable.
To those people I say: think what you will, but the numbers do not lie. Unsurprisingly, this problem has only had a few repeats. Treading upon snow on the equator holds a fascinating attraction. The contrast between equatorial jungle and snow-clad summits is a magnet to involvement. I had been offered a caretaking position for three months and thence leave to roam in Africa with a guaranteed ticket home.
The standard route itineraries on Mt Kilimanjaro m are organised to minimise time spent on the mountain as the daily fees imposed by the Tanzania National Parks Authority are enormous. These quick trips might reduce costs but they often result in climbers not summiting, and sometimes even dying. The word amongst the porters is that approximately 20 people per year die of altitude issues or, more accurately, lack of acclimatisation. A definite proportion does not summit due to fatigue or acute mountain sickness.
I had the time and the means to afford a more leisurely and pleasurable ascent. The safari company I used organised a private safari as I wanted a gentler pace and a rest day for recovery prior to summiting. I ignored the suggestions for timings and did it my way. Moshi is the more economical centre of Tanzania for Kilimanjaro ascents compared to exclusive Arusha. The town of Moshi was dry, hot, dusty and the view of snowy Kilimanjaro from my hotel window belied the dryness, heat and dustiness.
It was interesting to note that the maximum weight allowed was 18kg whereas Sherpas regularly carry 30kg, over more difficult terrain. The upward path was well traced and progressed through some beautiful jungle landscape, arriving at the tree-line at m and the first camp. During the night I got an altitude headache as a result of the rapid ascent. I had to walk slower and ensure that I took Diamox to help. It worked and I was able to continue to the campsite at the edge of the snowline at m. The conga line of trekkers became evident over the mostly barren landscape.
The continuous line of walkers and porters stretched the length of the ridge and proceeded slowly. We continuously overtook other groups and arrived at the campsite in good time to secure a good site. I relaxed and watched a beautiful sunset while the cook and porters busied themselves with camp chores and produced a respectable meal.
It snowed overnight and the porters were uneasy. Naturally the porters were anxious given their poor clothing and mostly. Their defence against the cold was to crowd together in one tent and keep warm with body heat during the night. We continually overtook other parties as they slowed down to ascend to m and then descended to the next campsite, back at m. Sanitation was starting to become an issue. The occasional squat toilets had to accommodate hundreds of developed-world guests, and required good aim, being much smaller target than many were used to.
The surroundings were putrid and produced impressions of abandonment, profiteering and maladministration by the Parks Authority. The guide showed his lack of knowledge of acclimatisation when he tried to change our itinerary. The arrangement was very clear at Moshi that we would ascend to the last camp at m, rest a full day and then start our summit-bid. During the trek he wanted to break the fifth day into two half days instead of a normal day and a rest day. It took some bargaining and convincing to change his mind. The routine that he was used to was re-organised and he was uncomfortable with the idea.
Eventually he agreed to stick to the original plan and we proceeded to the top camp to spend the night there, relax the following day, recover and then go for the summit push. At am my alarm sounded and I readied for an alpine start. We had agreed to move at am rather than the usual time of At am I became concerned because breakfast was still missing and our guide had not appeared. After a quick breakfast, and trying to calm down my negative impressions of the guide, we started. The lamps of the previous parties showed a clear line of ascent towards the rim of the caldera.
Slowly, slowly, slowly we started to overtake people. Party after party were left behind as we gradually ascended. The guide wandered upwards with his hands in his pockets and no pack or emergency equipment. There was no point in arguing or discussing anything with him. He had his ways and I had mine. Maybe this is why there are so many fatalities on the mountain, I thought. I carried food, liquid and spare gear in case.
We arrived at the rim well in advance of our anticipated schedule. We were one of the first groups to summit that day. He was lightly clad, was gradually getting cold and was highly uncomfortable when standing still. He greatly appreciated the gloves, parka and foam mat that I lent him. Jane Doe jangle janitor January Japanese jar jargon jaundice jaundiced jaunt jauntily jaunty javelin jaw jaws jaywalker jazz jazzy jealous jealously jealousy jeans Jeep jeer jeez Jell-O jelly jellyfish jeopardize jeopardy jerk jerkily jerky jersey jest jester Jesus Jesus Christ jet jet black jet engine jet lag jet-lagged jet-propelled jet propulsion jet set jet setter jettison jetty Jew jewel jeweled jeweler jewelry Jewish jibe jiffy jig jigger jiggle jigsaw puzzle jilt jingle jinx jinxed jitters jittery jive job jobless joblessness jock jockey jockstrap jocular jocularity jog jogger jogging john John Doe join joint jointly joint venture joke joker jolly jolt jostle jot journal journalism journalist journey jovial jowls joy joyful joyfully joyfulness joyous joyously joyride joyrider joyriding joystick Jr.
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